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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
|---|---|---|
| Jan 3 2008, 2:37 PM EST (current) | GCW | 2 widgets added |
| Sep 18 2007, 9:02 AM EDT | GCW | 2 words added, 2 words deleted |
Changes
Key: Additions Deletions
Some excellent moves on slopers. Save these for a cool day.
Unjust Crimps V3/4 6a
Match 5. Use crimps 7 and 9 to get top 11.
Unjustice V6 6b
Match-4. LH-8. RH-11. Much easier going again with left to 11- this is cheating.
Unpinched V7/8 6c
Very height/ span dependent.
LH-1 (sidepull), RH-2. Match-10 (sloper only- no pinches etc). RH-11
Unjust Dyno V8+ 6c 155cm
Lots of debate on grade. If you are VERY tall you can do it static as a semi-mantel at V6/7. The proper dyno is hard and very condition dependent.
Match-4. Dyno to 11.
NOTE: All these problems finish on 11. Using crimp 12 below the sloper is frowned upon. eg Dyno from 4 to edge 12 is about V6/7.
Unjust Crimps Eliminate Video (V3/4 6a):
Unjust Crimps V3/4 6a
Match 5. Use crimps 7 and 9 to get top 11.
Unjustice V6 6b
Match-4. LH-8. RH-11. Much easier going again with left to 11- this is cheating.
Unpinched V7/8 6c
Very height/ span dependent.
LH-1 (sidepull), RH-2. Match-10 (sloper only- no pinches etc). RH-11
Unjust Dyno V8+ 6c 155cm
Lots of debate on grade. If you are VERY tall you can do it static as a semi-mantel at V6/7. The proper dyno is hard and very condition dependent.
Match-4. Dyno to 11.
NOTE: All these problems finish on 11. Using crimp 12 below the sloper is frowned upon. eg Dyno from 4 to edge 12 is about V6/7.
Unjust Crimps Eliminate Video (V3/4 6a):
