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Jan 3 2008, 2:37 PM EST
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Change: There were only format changes (bold, italics, etc.) in this version. See this version for details.
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Sep 18 2007, 9:02 AM EDT
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Change: V4V3/4 6aMatch 5. Use crimps 7 and 9 to get top 11.Unjustice V6 6bMatch-4. LH-8. RH-11. Much easier going again with left to 11- this is cheating.Unpinched V7/8 6cVery height/ span dependent.LH-1 (sidepull), RH-2. Match-10 (sloper only- no pinches etc). RH-11Unjust
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(Word count: 156)
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Sep 18 2007, 8:53 AM EDT
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Change: V3V4 6aMatch 5. Use crimps 7 and 9 to get top 11.Unjustice V6 6bMatch-4. LH-8. RH-11. Much easier going again with left to 11- this is cheating.Unpinched V7/8 6cVery height/ span dependent.LH-1 (sidepull), RH-2. Match-10 (sloper only- no pinches etc). RH-11Unjust
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(Word count: 154)
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Sep 18 2007, 8:52 AM EDT
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Change: LH-7.LH-8. RH-11. Much easier going again with left to 11- this is cheating.Unpinched V7/8 6cVery height/ span dependent.LH-1 (sidepull), RH-2. Match-10 (sloper only- no pinches etc). RH-11Unjust Dyno V8+ 6c 155cmLots of debate on grade. If you
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(Word count: 154)
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Sep 17 2007, 4:20 PM EDT
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Change: V4V3 6aMatch 5. Use crimps 7 and 9 to get top 11.Unjustice V6 6bMatch-4. LH-7. RH-11. Much easier going again with left to 11- this is cheating.Unpinched V7/8 6cVery height/ span dependent.LH-1 (sidepull), RH-2. Match-10 (sloper only- no pinches etc). RH-11Unjust
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(Word count: 154)
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May 4 2007, 5:00 PM EDT
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Change: dependent.Match-4. Dyno to 11.NOTE: All these problems finish on 11. Using crimp 12 below the sloper is frowned upon. eg Dyno from 4 to edge 12 is about V6/7. Unjust Crimps Eliminate Video (V4 6a): Unjustice Video (V6 6b):Unpinched (V7 6c) Video:Unjust Dyno (Failure) Video:
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(Word count: 154)
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May 4 2007, 4:48 PM EDT
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Change: 155cmLots of debate on grade. If you are VERY tall you can do it static as a semi-mantel at V6/7. The proper dyno is hard and very condition dependent.Match-4. Dyno to 11.NOTE: All these problems finish on 11. Using
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(Word count: 148)
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Apr 28 2007, 3:42 PM EDT
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Change: and very condition dependent.Match-4. Dyno to 11.NOTE: All these problems finish on 11. Using crimp 12 below the sloper is frowned upon. eg Dyno from 4 to edge 12 is about V6/7.Unjustice Video (V6 6b):Unpinched (V7 6c) Video: Unjust Dyno (Failure) Video:
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Apr 22 2007, 4:12 PM EDT
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Change: LH-6,Match RH-5.5. Use crimps 7 and 9 to get top 11.Unjustice V6 6bMatch-4. LH-7. RH-11. Much easier going again with left to 11- this is cheating.Unpinched V7/8 6cVery height/ span dependent.LH-1 (sidepull), RH-2. Match-10 (sloper only- no pinches etc). RH-11Unjust Dyno
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(Word count: 143)
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Apr 15 2007, 9:45 AM EDT
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Change: is hard and very condition dependent.Match-4. Dyno to 11.NOTE: All these problems finish on 11. Using crimp 12 below the sloper is frowned upon. eg Dyno from 4 to edge 12 is about V6/7.Unjustice Video:Video (V6 6b):Unpinched (V7 6c) Video:
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(Word count: 145)
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Apr 15 2007, 9:45 AM EDT
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Change: There were only format changes (bold, italics, etc.) in this version. See this version for details.
(Word count: 143)
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Apr 15 2007, 9:26 AM EDT
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Change: semi-mantel at V6/7. The proper dyno is hard and very condition dependent.Match-4. Dyno to 11.NOTE: All these problems finish on 11. Using crimp 12 below the sloper is frowned upon. eg Dyno from 4 to edge 12 is about V6/7.Unjustice Video:Unpinched (V7 6c) Video:
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(Word count: 143)
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Apr 15 2007, 9:16 AM EDT
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Change: Lots of debate on grade. If you are VERY tall you can do it static as a semi-mantel at V6/7. The proper dyno is hard and very condition dependent.Match-4. Dyno to 11.NOTE: All these problems finish on 11. Using crimp 12 below the sloper is frowned upon. Unpinched
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(Word count: 130)
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Apr 11 2007, 6:34 PM EDT
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Change: Unpinched (V7 6c) Video:
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Apr 9 2007, 3:42 PM EDT
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Change: Created by Apr 9 2007, 3:42 PM EDT for: no reason given
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