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12a. Pigswill Eliminates
There are many eliminates on this small piece of rock. No apologies for the confusing diagram.
1. Undercuts
2. Good foothold
3. Higher foot nick
4. Ledge (not including sidepull)
5. Sidewall of niche
6. Undercut with dink
7. Sidepull
8. Crimp/ pinch
9. Undercut
10. Dink
11. Poor undercut
12. OK undercuit
13. Sidepull
14. Pinch
15. Pinch
16. Good hold next to Parabola
17. Good crimp
18. Poorer crimp
19. Crappy crimp
20. Good blob/ sloper
21. Poor crimp
22. Better crimp
23. Good crimp
24. Big sloper
25. Pocket
26. Slot
27. Jug
Pigswill No Tricks V7 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. RF-2, LF-4. RH- 20. Usual finish. No foot/toe hooks/locks/ faggotry
PP (Pigswill into Parabola) V7 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. RF-2, LF-5. LH-13. RH- 21. Bump RF up to 3. LH-17, RH-18, finish as per usual.
[In the first video I go to 16 instead of 17. I find the move to 16 harder, but I can reach 17 static. Ho hum]
GCW's Proper Pigswill No Tricks V8 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. Now, LF-2 and flag right foot. LH-23, RH-25. LH-27
Totally changes the problem- but viscious on tips. May be harder if you are shorter than I am.
Peaky's Problem V9ish 6c
Sit start on 1. RH-14. LH-21. RH-27.
Looks horrible. Certainly VERY reachy.
Direkt with a K V6 6c
Sit start on 4. Use 8 and 13 to gain 17 and 18, then 26. Top out direct.
Hogwart's V7 6c
Sit start on 4. RH-8, LH-6. Do something clever with your feet to get RH-14. Add a finish of your choice.
PP V7 6c Video:
1. Undercuts
2. Good foothold
3. Higher foot nick
4. Ledge (not including sidepull)
5. Sidewall of niche
6. Undercut with dink
7. Sidepull
8. Crimp/ pinch
9. Undercut
10. Dink
11. Poor undercut
12. OK undercuit
13. Sidepull
14. Pinch
15. Pinch
16. Good hold next to Parabola
17. Good crimp
18. Poorer crimp
19. Crappy crimp
20. Good blob/ sloper
21. Poor crimp
22. Better crimp
23. Good crimp
24. Big sloper
25. Pocket
26. Slot
27. Jug
Pigswill No Tricks V7 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. RF-2, LF-4. RH- 20. Usual finish. No foot/toe hooks/locks/ faggotry
PP (Pigswill into Parabola) V7 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. RF-2, LF-5. LH-13. RH- 21. Bump RF up to 3. LH-17, RH-18, finish as per usual.
[In the first video I go to 16 instead of 17. I find the move to 16 harder, but I can reach 17 static. Ho hum]
GCW's Proper Pigswill No Tricks V8 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. Now, LF-2 and flag right foot. LH-23, RH-25. LH-27
Totally changes the problem- but viscious on tips. May be harder if you are shorter than I am.
Peaky's Problem V9ish 6c
Sit start on 1. RH-14. LH-21. RH-27.
Looks horrible. Certainly VERY reachy.
Direkt with a K V6 6c
Sit start on 4. Use 8 and 13 to gain 17 and 18, then 26. Top out direct.
Hogwart's V7 6c
Sit start on 4. RH-8, LH-6. Do something clever with your feet to get RH-14. Add a finish of your choice.
PP V7 6c Video:
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, Apr 26 2007, 8:18 AM EDT
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