Brownstones Quarry Bouldering - Recently Updated Pages

NEWS

GCW — Mon, 07 Dec 2009 11:43:57 CST

160 videos available at present

7th December 2009
Had a message via the site that I thought I'd share:

"The Lancashire Wildlife Trust in partnership with Bolton Council has recently started developing management plans for Brownstones Quarry and Ousels Nest Quarry with the hope of designating them as Local Nature Reserves. This means that the sites will be managed for both the improvement of wildlife and users. We are currently conducting community consultation to determine what the sites are used for and what users of the sites value the most. Climbing is obviously one of the main uses at Brownstones and the trust is keen to involve climber’s as much as possible (i.e. guiding management, involvement in friends of groups, engaging more people in involvement with the site, and practical work etc). Anyone interested in having a say can contact Stephen on 01204 663754 or scartwright@lancswt.org.uk. I would greatly appreciate it if you could pass this message around as much as possible! We need all the support we can get to have the site designated, in the short term this would mean developing the management plan and small practical jobs like removing scrub from the quarry face but in the long term projects like access improvements etc could be possible. I have been told that a climbing group meets at Brownstones regularly and I wondered if you know anything about this? Thank you very much.

Stephen Cartwright.
Assistant LNR Project Officer.
Wildlife Trust for Lancashire, Manchester and North Merseyside."

8th October 2009
Brownstones is featured in this month's Stone Circles article in Climber, thanks to Si and Ray for the good review. There's one wrongly labelled photo in the article- a mini quiz!

21st August 2009
Brownstones saw some attention yesterday when Si Panton, Ray Wood and the posse came along for a photo shoot. Hopefully they enjoyed themselves, they certianly had enthusiasm for a lot of the problems. They were also lucky to meet Hank and Geoff M. Keep your eyes peeled for an article sometime in the future.

22nd June 2009
I haven't been to Brownstones for a while, partly due to rupturing an A2 pulley. I went tonight only to find the place full on Midges and Horseflies, damn them all. I did a lot of the easier problems and it makes me look forward to a time when I'm healed, it's cooler and the biting insects have all gone away.
Someone has done a fair job of a patio on the Pond Traverse, good work whoever you are!

12th January 2009
I've tweaked the definitive topo, adding some of Robin Mueller's new Nexus eliminates and altering some errors in the guide. The guide is available to download on the UKBouldering Vimeo group page.

1st November 2008
Been a good few months since I visited Brownstones. One thing I noticed was a foot hold breakage on Hank's Wall. The good diagonal edge has broken and is now 30% of its previous size. No significant change in difficulty though.

17th March 2008
A brief session at Brownstones yielded Blurt Variant (at least I think I did it correctly).
Well done to RGinns who did his first Brit 6a with Verdigris, a fine and smooth ascent.

3rd January 2008
A cold day at Brownstones but not bad conditions at all. Finally got a video of Groundhog. Also bumped into dannyxt and jayoj. Nice to meet some of the wiki people.
Good luck to everyone in 2008!!

26th December 2007
A damp day at Brownstones, with only 2 pieces of dry rock. GCW bumped into R-Man and 4 problems were videod, including R-Man repeating his own sitter to Lifeline.

22nd August 2007
I have corrected a few errors with the lines in the guide. Thanks to everyone for their input. Now we just need to work out the difference between Dylan V3 and Grand Theft V6/7 and we're sorted.
Updated PDFs now available.

12th August 2007
I have created a PDF of the Wiki. This topo should be easier for those wanting to print out the guide. There will shortly be a guide for eliminates and the harder problems. Check out the Downloads page for more information.
Also, I snapped a foot hold off of Ridiculous Eliminate tonight. It has left a bigger scar at ground level, with a crumbly hold which is best avoided. The grade is unchanged.

6th August 2007
A hot afternoon at Brownstones yielded some photos of Hank's Wall Area and Ash Pit Slabs.
I also noticed chalk on the start of Colt, I assume Probes is getting there. Good luck to whoever was taking falls from Thunder.

23rd July 2007
It seems to have rained since the last update. I've done nothing, hence the lack of updates. Let's all wish for better conditions!!

7th June 2007
Videos of Arur and Corn Mantel added. This means there are complete videos of all original lines in the Two Step and Ash Pit Slabs Areas. Still a lot more to do though!

26th May 2007
Had a brief hour free this morning, so got a few more videos done. Verdinand was done on video, thus meaning all the original problems in the Two Step Area have videos. I also filmed a few eliminates that Jim (sorry, don't know your full name) showed me a few days ago. Enjoy.

19th May 2007
After weeks of wet weather, a dry evening at Brownstones allowed GCW to look at a dyno he had spotted weeks before. Initially this felt about V8 but after using a second generation move, the dyno was in the bag at V5. The I.L.T. Dyno is the biggest (so far) at Brownstones, weighing in at 207cm, but is also one of the least demanding.

14th May 2007
Paul Robins has submitted a video of Ninja Finger V7 6c. Thanks to him for that, looks a good problem.

5th May 2007
Did all the problems right of Haskit on video today. I can't say topping out on these is recommended, I would suggest downclimbing would be a better option. However, for Wiki completeness I topped out on all of them- the heather appeared fairly solid, although I did resort to a cheat-rope for the Inferno top-out- sorry.

30th April 2007
Reports are coming in that Paul Robins has done a new problem up the wall between The Slanter and Thunder. Paul reckons V7 for Ninja Finger. Until he tells me more it goes in the Graded List at the bottom (but I bet it isn't really!!).

26th April 2007
I notice someone has trimmed the heather over the Tom and Jerry area. Good job, I'll try to take advantage soon by getting these problems on video, although these problems are now filthy and need a good brush.
There was also a lot chalk on LifeLine sitter, including the good sidepull on the right. I hope this hasn't been used as it's out of bounds!!

18th April 2007
Another hot and slimy evening at the Quarry. Bumped into Hank Pasquill and Geoff Mann- it demonstrates the enduring appeal of this venue that people keep coming back. Added more videos- up to 75 now- as well as the Graded List.

14th April 2007
At last this Wiki is almost at a useable level of completion. Most pages are done, most internal links are finished and there's only a couple more topos to do for the eliminates. Far too hot tonight to boulder but got most of the Pond and 2 Step areas filmed. Gardening will be needed to top out properly on Riddle/ Middle/ Piddle. Not recommended.

Winter Hill from Brownstones:

This stupid idea of mine may actually work!!!!
GCW

Downloads

GCW — Sat, 22 Aug 2009 01:56:39 CDT

UPDATE: New, snappier guides are available over on the UKBouldering Vimeo page. This is mainly because this site doesn't have the storage necessary.
Click Here for the guides to Brownstones, Denham, Blackstone Edge.

I have put together a couple of PDF guides for Brownstones Quarry bouldering. These contain all the problems in the Wiki, but in a format that is easier to print off. They are designed to be used in conjunction with this online guide.
To keep files small for download, some images may be of lower quality than online. Apologies if this is an issue.

You will require Adobe Acrobat Reader to view these guides.

Scroll down the page for the downloads. I recommend that you right click and "save target as".

Brownstones Guide Small: Topo of all independent lines including some newer stuff not documented anywhere currently.
Brownstones New Problems and Eliminates Small: Lots of eliminates and silly stuff. One for the Brownstones devotees!!

Guides for other venues
I have also uploaded guides for Denham Quarry and Healey Nab. Denham has some good problems, as does Healey Nab. The latter is definitely filed under esoterica but is worth a visit on a sunny day to tick The Titanium Traverse V6/7.

I've uploaded a super duper Brownstones guide here. Right click and save target as, be aware it's 32MB.
Bandwidth can be exceeded easily, so if it doesn't work please try again the next day. cheers.

07a. Snatch V7 6c

r-man — Thu, 14 May 2009 07:04:32 CDT

The tight wall between flakes and the corner crack. Pull on using the thin left hand sidepull and good right hand crimp. Once in position, lunge for the good edge. Bigger holds follow.

Snatch Video

Graded list

r-man — Thu, 14 May 2009 07:02:58 CDT

Due to pressure from colleagues, here we go. The usual warnings apply.....
Current state of each problem has been taken into account to some degree. And a few are educated guesses.....

Ungradable
DC10

V9
Colt
?Peaky’s Eliminate

V8+
[v] Right Hand Hank
[v] Dezertion Eliminate SDS
[v] Unjust Dyno
The Vision

V8
Sieta’s Present
[v] Lifeline SDS
[v] Groundhog SDS
[v] Dezertion Eliminate
Hank’s Wall SDS
[v] Ridiculous Eliminate
The Ugly
Proper Pigswill No Tricks

V7
3 Hold Hank
[v] The Witching Hour
[v] Unpinched
[v] Ridiculous Dyno
[v] Hank’s Wall
[v] PP
Crackhorse
[v] Nightlife
Hogwart’s
Thunder
[v] Pigswill No Tricks
Lancashire PotHot (no flake for feet)
[v] Snatch
[v] BigMuff
[v] Ninja Finger

V6
Grand Theft
[v] Groundhog
Jim Squat
Dezertion SDS
Direkt with a K
[v] Unjustice
[v] The Bad
[v] Pigswill SDS
[v] Knahrl
Tulip

V5
Rusty Wall
Prow Dyno
Low Traverse (The Niche)
The Pillar
6b Traverse (LBW)
Traditional Mantel Problem
[v] No step
[v] Lancashire PotHot
Playback
[v] GCW6a
The Good
The Young Pretender start
[v] The I.L.T. Dyno

V4
[v] Lifeline
[v] Directissima Left Hand Eliminate
[v] The Niche Sitter
[v] Pinch Eliminate
[v] Unjust (crimps)
[v] Nexus Dyno
[v] Verdinand

V3
Impo
Lowballing
Hardline
Butt End
Alana
[v] Pond Traverse
The Latch
[v]Boopers
[v] Gullible’s Travels
Parabola Direct
[v] Ash Pit Traverse Low
[v] Unjust
[v] Satisfying Sloper Problem
[v] Verdigris
Butch
[v] Niche Sitter
Fraudulent Slip
Beano
[v] One Hand Wally

V2
Black Wall
Stop Butt
The Slanter
Riddle
[v] Piddle
Middle
Dave’s Other Route
[v] Parr’s Crack
[v] Moss Wall
[v] Digitation
Faintline
Knep
[v] Muddy Arete
Knah
Norma
The Lock
[v] Haskit Left
Var
[v] Wall Climb
[v] Dynamic Eliminate
[v] Slayback
Bitto
[v] Dynostrung
[v] V2 Slap
[v] Traditional Rockover
[v] Fineline

V1
Dave’s Route
Hank
The Key
Heartline
[v] Splosh
[v] Blurt Variant
Parabola
[v] Two Step Left Hand
[v] Slimer
[v] Splash
Finger Crack
[v] Haskit Right
[v] Dezerit
[v] Green Wall
[v] Obscenity
[v] Scraper
[v] Corn Mantel
[v] Fraud
[v] Layback
[v] Low Break Traverse

V0
Wibble
Tom
Jerry
[v] Wet Foot
[v] The Corner
[v] Lobotomy
[v] Hernia
[v] Blurt
[v] Test Piece
[v] Ash Pit Traverse High

V0-
[v] Inferno 4c
Somersault 4c
Warlon’s Wall 4b
[v] The Prow 4c
[v] Watery Arete 4c
[v] Muddy Wall 4c
[v] Splish 4c
[v] Nexus 4c
[v] Verdi Wall 4c
[v] Analogue 4c
[v] Hopper 4c
Crackle 4c
Bill 4c
The Chimney 4c
Dezis Wall 4c
Delicatessen 4b
[v] Ponder 4b
[v] Verdi Ramp 4b
[v] Arur 4b
[v] Moss Wall 4b
[v] Apple 4b
[v] Dragnet 4b
Grass Groove Diff
[v] Two Step 4b
[v] Magic Circle 4b
[v] Tiptoe 4b
Y Front 4a
[v] Vertigo 4a
[v] Little Man 4a
[v] Halt 4a
[v] Verdi Corner 4a
[v] Short Corner Diff
[v] Crooked Crack 4a
[v] Climber and Rambler 4a
[v] Groovy 4a
[v] Way Down 4a
[v] Slab Direct 4a
[v] Diane V.Diff
[v] The Nose V.Diff
[v] Wet Corner V.Diff
[v] Chockerblock Corner V.Diff
[v] Brownstones Crack V.Diff
[v] Pocket Hole Wall V Diff
[v] Mantelstrung Diff
[v] Bunnie's Dilemma Diff
[v] The Thrutch Diff
[v] Ash Pit Slab Diff
[v] Pondule Diff
[v] Rambler Diff
[v] Slab Variant Diff

Dyno League Table

[v] The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm
[v] Ridiculous Dyno 203cm
[v] Dynostrung 167cm
[v] Nexus Dyno 165cm
[v] GCW6a 163cm
[v] Unjust Dyno 155cm
[v] One Hand Wally 105cm

04. Groundhog Area

r-man — Thu, 14 May 2009 06:34:04 CDT

01. The Young Pretender V6 6b**
02. Groundhog V6 6c**
03. Crackhorse V6 6b*
04. The Key V1 5b*
05. The Lock V2 5c
06. The Latch V3 6a

07. Finger Crack V1 5b
07a. Snatch V7 6c
08. Y Front V0- 4a
09. Satisfying Sloper Problem V3 6a*
10. Tom V0 5a
11. Jerry V0 5a
12. Butch V3 6a

17. Knah V2 5c

r-man — Thu, 14 May 2009 06:25:09 CDT

Climb the tricky forked crack. The sitstart, using crack holds only, is Knahrl V6 6b.

Knahrl Video

07. Dezertion Area

GCW — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:43:38 CST

00 Tulip V4/5 6b
01. Delicatessen V0- 4b
[v] 02. The Prow V0- 4c
[v] 03. Halt V0- 4a
[v] 04. Blurt V0 5a
[v] 05. Blurt Variant V1 5b
[v] 06. Fineline V2 5c
[v] 07. Diane V0- V.Diff

[v] 08. Dezertion V6 6c
[v] 09. Dezerit V1 5b*
[v] 10. Boopers V3 6a**
11. Bitto V2 5c
12. Beano V3 6a
13. Grass Groove V0- Diff
14. Dezis Wall V0- 4c

o.a Tulip V4/5 6b

rginns — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 13:10:54 CST

There is no abstract available for this page revision.

17a. Nexus Eliminates

r-man — Mon, 05 Jan 2009 19:28:00 CST

Lots of holds, lots of eliminates (even if most are dynos!!).

The Vision V8/V8+ 6c
Start RH-3. LH-12. RH-crimp roughly right of 18. LH-20.
No flake for feet.
Massive lock off.

The Low Road V7 6c
Start LH-10, RH-11. LH-12. RH-13. LH-arete jug roughly left of 19.
No flake for feet.
Tricky cross-over.

Goldilocks V6 6b
Start LH-13, RH-13. RH-crimp roughly right of 18. LH-20.
Basic.

Everything Else is Wet V6 6b
Start LH-low crimp right of arete, RH-5. RH-15. LH-18. RH-20.
Deep cross-through.

Lancashire PotHot V5 6b
Sit start on 3. RH-7 (sidepull), LH-7. RH-21. LH-20.
Without the flake for your feet it is allegedly V7
Nice Moves.

Jim Squat V6 6b
Sit start: LH-5, RH-4. RF-1. Flag left foot or put out left somewhere.
RH-12. LF-2. LH-19.
I find this desperate with the specified footholds.

Cack Hand V4
The left arete using the right hand only. Avoid the large ledge and the good hold. Finish with a move to 20.

The Dynos

One Hand Wally V3 6a [105cm]
One handed 19 to 23. Either hand, same grade. The obvious variant of 18 to 23 has not been done.... yet.

Nexus Dyno V4 6a [165cm]
LH-10, RH-9. Dyno to 20.
Similar grade as a double but more fun.

The Good V5 6b
LH-14, RH-13. Dyno to 20.
Getting harder as 14 wears.

GCW6a V5 6b [163cm]
LH-15 (sidepull the arete, thumb on dink) and RH-16. Dyno to 23.
Same start and a big move to 25 is a project.

The Bad V6 6b/c
LH-13, RH-12. Dyno to 20.

Nightlife V7 6c
LH-11, RH-10. Dyno to 20.

The Witching Hour V7/8 6c
LH-12, RH-10. Dyno to 20.

The Ugly V8 6c
Match 12. Dyno to 20.

Project
LH-12, RH-11. Dyno to 20.

Lancashire PotHot V5 6b:

The Dynos:

One Hand Wally V3 6a:

The Nexus Dyno V4 6a:

GCW6a V5 6a:

The Bad V6 6b/c:

Nightlife V7 6c:

The Witching Hour V7 6c:

06a. Traditional Problems

r-man — Mon, 29 Dec 2008 11:32:18 CST

On the wall between Inferno and Dragnet are a couple more worthwhile problems.

Good Golly V6
Match large sloper left of A. Launch or lock off for jug left C with right hand.
Good Grief V7/8
Match large sloper left of A. Launch or lock off for jug left C with left hand.
Traditional Mantel V5 6a uses hold A for all it's worth to mantel. Once manteling like mad get crimp C. Needless to say cracks are out for feet- bicycle madly on the face smears.
Traditional Rockover V2 5c rocks over on hold A. Start on A, get B and match it. Stick your left foot onto A and start rocking over. Ge the pocket D with your left hand, and that's it. Again, no other footholds allowed.

Traditional Rockover Video:

05. Hank's Wall Area

r-man — Mon, 29 Dec 2008 11:28:10 CST

[v] 01. Little Man V0- 4a
[v] 02. Crooked Crack V0- 4a
[v] 03. Gullible's Travels V3 6a
[v] 04. Way Down V0- 4a
[v] 05. Vertigo V0- 4a

[v] 06. Inferno V0- 4c
[v] 06a. Traditional Problems
[v] 07. Dragnet V0- 4b
07a. The Pillar V5 6b
[v] 08. Haskit V1/V2 5c*
08a. Alana Problems

[v] 09. Layback V1 5b*
[v] 10. Hank's Wall V7 6c**
10a. Hank's Wall Eliminates
[v] 11. Parr's Crack V2 5c**
[v] 12. Pigswill V6 6c*
[v] 12a. Pigswill Eliminates
13. Parabola V1 5b**
14. Parabola Direct V3 6a*
14a. Parabola Left V6/7?
15. The Chimney V0- 4c
16. Wibble V0 5a
[v] 17. Nexus V0- 4c*
[v] 17a. Nexus Wall Eliminates

14a. Parabola Left V6?

r-man — Sun, 28 Dec 2008 11:54:13 CST

Climb the tight wall left of the Parabola flake and crack (this is out for both feet and hands). Build feet using left hand underclings and the good right hand jug, to make an awkward stab into the high slot. Highball.

06a. Obscenity Wall Eliminates

rginns — Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:52:30 CDT

There are two good eliminates on this wall.

Ridiculous Eliminate (V8 6c) sit starts in the crack 1 and uses two horrible holds 2 and 3 to gain the top 4.
Ridiculous Dyno (V7 6c) dispenses with extra holds to dyno from a sitter in 1 to the top 4.

Ridiculous Eliminate (V8 6c) Video:

17. Noddy's Crack V2 5c

GCW — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:41:13 CDT

The crack. Quite a lot harder using only the crack.

Noddy's Crack video (video and climber RGinns):

06. Fineline V2 5c

GCW — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:40:20 CDT

The obvious weakness.

Fineline Video, Climber and Vid RGinns:

02. Two Step Area

GCW — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:37:30 CDT

[v] 01. Muddy Arete V2 5c
[v] 02. Muddy Wall V0- 4c
[v] 03. Chockerblock Corner V0- (V.Diff)
[v] 04. Mantelstrung V0- (Diff)

[v] 05. Two Step V0- 4b
[v] 06. Two Step Left-Hand V1 5b
[v] 07. Verdi Wall V0- 4c
[v] 08. Verdigris V3 6a*
[v] 09. Verdinand V4 6a*
[v] 10. Verdi Corner V0- 4a

[v] 11. Verdi Ramp V0- 4b
[v] 12. Moss Wall V0- 4b to V2 5c*
[v] 13. Brownstones Crack V0- (V.Diff)
[v] 14. Slimer V1 5b
[v] 15. Lobotomy V0 5a
[v] 16. Hernia V0 5a
[v] Two Step Area Eliminates

Two Step Area Eliminates

GCW — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:35:09 CDT

The Niche Sitter 01 V3 5c
Sit in the niche. Both hands on undercut 2. Obtain 4 and 3. Then 7. Finish on 8.

02. Slab Direct V0- 4a

GCW — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:27:24 CDT

Take a direct line up the slab.

Climber and video: RGinns

08. Dezertion V6 6b/c

GCW — Thu, 15 May 2008 17:33:34 CDT

The arete on its right. A desperate move to the finger jug. You have to pull on first to get V6, by the way.

Dezertion Eliminate V8 avoids the nick 1 and uses only arete 3 and crimp 2. Again, desperately go for edge 4.

Dezertion Eliminate (V8) Video:
Climber- Robin Mueller, stupid Noises by Andy Emery and Oli

Obscenity Area Routes

rginns — Sun, 11 May 2008 16:18:19 CDT

RGinns on Slab direct 4a two days before the wedding:

Another old favourite in teh wedding suit...Magic Circle April 08